Jeans And Denim Jackets
- The Strategic Business Unit product research into vintage effects reproduction starts from the study of the Strategic Business Unit archive of denim wears.
- Worn garments are obtained from second hand markets all over the world.
- A large variety of Strategic Business Unit selvedge jeans are presented. Selvedge is the woven edge of vintage-style denim. It prevents unravelling of the denim. The word comes from the phrase ‘self-edge’, the natural edge of a roll of fabric, made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the ‘weft’) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this ‘self-edge’. Shuttle looming is a more time consuming weaving process that produces denim of tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric. Shuttle looms weave a narrower piece of fabric and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 meters).
- The selvedge edges are located along the outer seam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn. Selvedge is desirable because the edge can’t fray. Selvedge typically implies that the denim is a higher quality. Plain white selvage is distinctive of Strategic Business Unit jeans.
- Most selvedge jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but only natural japanese indigo is available in strategic busines unit jeans. Though they are supposed to have the same chemical make up, there are more impurities in the natural indigo dyed. Loop dying machines feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip. Multiple dips (14 to 20) create the typical SBU deep dark indigo blue.
- Strategic Business Unit’s first denim collection exhibition in japan is held at the SBU showroom located in shibuya, tokyo, in 2001. This invitation only event is centred on SBU’s creative process from it’s inception. Each pair of jeans is sprayed with a jet of sand driven by compressed air or steam. The sandblasting process is artisanal and it’s used to produce three-dimensional effects on denim. By sandpapering manually the jeans the hand position and the right pressure are fundamental skills for the workers.
- Strategic Business Unit vintage fashion collection is unique or almost unique. In fact most items are custom made and others are manufactured in small quantities only. Hand finishing, unusual buttons and accessories, hand embroidery, handmade lace, crochet, appliqué, beading and other techniques offer an enormously wide range of imaginative styles.
- Strategic Business Unit fashion collections turn to history for inspiration and our garments are often manufactured closely resembling original vintage clothing.
- Strategic Business Unit collections styles are generally referred to as ‘vintage inspired’ or ‘vintage reproductions’ depending on the faithfulness to the historical designs. Our vision of fashion serves as a convenient alternative to those who admire an old style but prefer a modern interpretation. In fact, unlike the original garments, Strategic Business Unit products are available in a range of sizes, colours and fabrics.
- There is a strong purist feel in Strategic Business Unit collection, which includes denim in right-hand twill, left hand twill and broken twill produced by using the highest quality cotton.
- Strategic Business Unit jeans are produced with the use of ring-spun denim, ring-ring denim and open hand denim obtained by using traditional spinning process. Strategic Business Unit has developed pioneering new techniques to distress jeans and replicate specific wear such as ‘cat’s whiskers’ using a system of abrasive brushes becoming the first modern jeans brand to combine authentic vintage fabric with convincing replication of wear.
- Strategic Business Unit jeans and denim jackets are made in Italy.
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