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  • SBU 年代記

    • 1990, September
    • Cristiano and Patrizio Perfetti found Strategic Business Unit brand.
    • SBU is an autonomous division or organizational unit, small enough to be flexible and large enough to exercise control over most of the factors affecting its long-term performance. because sbus are more agile (and usually have independent missions and objectives), they allow the owning conglomerate to respond quickly to changing economic or market.
    • 1991, March
    • First Strategic Business Unit store is opened on via Antonio Serra 87, Rome.
    • 1993, October
    • A second Strategic Business Unit store is opened in a residential area of the city. this two-floor shop, located on via chiana 73/75, boasts a large selection of vintage and military collectable clothing in its basement.
    • 1993, December
    • The Strategic Business Unit flagship store and headquarter is established, located on via di san pantaleo 68/69, just off Piazza Navona, in the centre of Rome. This location features authentic furniture dated from 1880, combined with 16th century architecture in a timeless space. the shop consists of four different spaces: the first room hosting it’s men’s sportswear, knitwear and denim collections; the second room is dedicated to the tailoring, shirts and jeans collection for men; the third room is a studio used for commercial and creative work; the courtyard is a space where to sit and relax.
    • 1994, January
    • In 1994 the via antonio serra 87 location is transformed to an Strategic Business Unit warehouse and archive. furniture and antiques are stored together with a large selection of new and used garments from various years.
    • 1995 / 1998
    • The Strategic Business Unit basic denim and fashion collections are produced with the endeavour to realize a modern classic wardrobe obtained with the progressive incorporation of garments having different origin and function. those “units”, linked one to another, integrate and complete the previous. each strategic unit constitutes connected elements with a diverse interpretation.
    • 1999, February
    • The first Strategic Business Unit winter 2000 denim collection debuts in los angeles. since then, SBU has presented its men and women’s denim collection twice each year. deliberate distressing, calculated localized breakage and intentional abrasions are all executed by hand. organic tint process, enzymatic and biological washes are central for the SBU aesthetic and philosophy. startgic business unit washes are realized with extra care by laundries that ‘finish’ jeans, washing them and/or distress them for a worn look. SBU jeans design team and manufacturers use several different laundries that specialize in different washes. the main techniques include simple washing, stone washing and stone bleaching.
    • 2000, July
    • The Strategic Business Unit 2001 denim collection is launched in london.
    • A large variety of selvedge jeans are presented. selvedge is the white woven edge of vintage-style denim. it prevents unravelling of the denim. the word comes from the phrase ‘self-edge’, the natural edge of a roll of fabric, made on old-style shuttle looms. these looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the ‘weft’) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. as the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this ‘self-edge’. shuttle looming is a more time consuming weaving process that produces denim of tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric. shuttle looms weave a narrower piece of fabric and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 meters). the selvedge edges are located along the outer seam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn. selvedge is desirable because the edge can’t fray. selvedge typically implies that the denim is a higher quality. plain white selvage is distinctive of Strategic Business Unit jeans collection. most selvedge jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but only natural japanese indigo is available in Strategic Business Unit jeans. though they are supposed to have the same chemical make up, there are more impurities in the natural indigo dyed. loop dying machines feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out. the dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip. multiple dips (14 to 20) create the typical SBU deep dark indigo blue.
    • 2001, September
    • Trategic business unit’s first denim collection exhibition in japan is held at the Strategic Business Unit showroom located in shibuya, tokyo. this invitation only event is centred on sbu’s creative process from its inception. each pair of jeans was sprayed with a jet of sand driven by compressed air or steam. the sandblasting process is artisanal and it’s used to produce three-dimensional effects on denim. by sandpapering manually the jeans the hand position and the right pressure are fundamental skills for the workers. the show was highly appreciated by the most influential japanese fashion companies.
    • 2001, December
    • Strategic Business Unit special volume is a limited edition photographic book issued in a 1000 numbered copies featuring the unique manufacturing process used to craft every pair of Strategic Business Unit jeans. this publication is edited resembling a 33-rpm record. all images are previously unpublished photographs from the SBU archive.
    • 2002, November
    • The Strategic Business Unit tailored collection is launched.
    • The men’s suit is, without question, the most universal and appropriate item in a gentleman’s wardrobe. the path to the SBU elegant style begins with the suit, the cornerstone of men’s fashion. as it’s most basic, startegic business unit men’s suit is a jacket and trousers of the same material and intended to be worn together. many things define SBU suits: the fabric from which they are made, including colour and weight: the style or cut: the details or “trimming” applied: the degree of customization.
    • Strategic Business Unit tailored line takes inspiration from the three major styles of suit, named for the countries in which they originated. the english style is mixed with the american “sack” suit tradition and italian “continental” elegance. the collection is the final result of multiple fusions of elements of those major three styles. main indicator of quality in SBU “black label” is the trimming and the selection of its details such as pocket styles, linings, button materials and functional sleeve buttons. production is in italy.
    • 2002 / 2007
    • Strategic Business Unit magazine is published between 2002 and 2007 in a total of nine issues released twice a year. SBU magazine is a periodical publication containing photographs and illustrations whose main topic is art and fashion. Strategic Business Unit magazine is an independent expression of integrity and style and carry no advertising. SBU is solely responsible for the choice of images and layout used within this magazine. Strategic Business Unit magazine is often edited in different editions for each country or area of the world, varying to same degree in content but never entirely dissimilar. SBU magazine is now sold out and no more copies are available.
    • 2003 / 2009
    • A new denim line named primitive is launched for the italian domestic market from 2003 thru 2007. the sense get ‘back to basic’ is the manifesto and essence of this jeans line. primitive jeans are sold in the best italian windows exclusively. this collection has been projected and realized in order to satisfy the high demand from our internal market. all denim fabrics are made in japan. manual interventions give to primitive jeans a unique image. primitive is a registered trademark.
    • 2003, October
    • Strategic Business Unit special, a limited edition of items of particular value, distinguished by a unique quality, is showed simultaneously in representative stores in Rome, London, Munich, Wien, Stockholm, New York, Los Angeles and Tokyo. Used garments taken from Strategic Business Unit archive and remodelled in shape and proportions inspire SBU special. each item has been reproduced to resemble the original model. the use of the most sophisticated technology combined with the manual intervention make each piece of this section absolutely unique.
    • This collection presents coats, jackets, waistcoats and raincoats having traditional interior details, which are combined together with jeans or cotton trousers and t-shirts or sweaters. protective outer garments role is central in Strategic Business Unit special selection.
    • Single-breasted overcoat is presented with a cashmere scarf in a large number of colours.
    • A military double-breasted standard overcoat is shown without a belt in black, charcoal, olive and khaki. a special section of deconstructed jackets are grouped within this selection. garments are made of cashmere, camelhair and merino wool. 80s wool makes beautiful suiting that are perfect for work. super 100s is a bit more luxurious and super 120s is incredibly smooth. wool flannel is soft and also often used thanks to both its stylish and practical versatility. pure ‘camelhair’ garments distinctive by their natural beige colour are grouped in separately. thanks to its incomparable warmth, durability and softness, the Strategic Business Unit special collection is largely appreciated from gentleman all over the world.
    • 2004 / 2006
    • Project and production of a new jeans label named globale denim is commissioned to brothers cristiano and patrizio perfetti by united arrows, the most important fashion retail group in japan, for a special section of stores under the company’s name. globale jeans are made in italy and carefully inspected in japan before displayed in united arrows shops, by using the highest standard. production went on from 2004 thru 2006.
    • 2005, July
    • Strategic Business Unit jeans winter 2005 collection is showed in munich for the german market. the use of new exclusive indigo dyed japanese fabrics makes this collection distinctive. because the indigo pigment is not water soluble it cannot be dyed through boiling as other plant dyeing, in fact it has to be fermented to become soluble. yarns are soaked into indigo liquid then, being oxidized by oxygen in the air after picking them out from the vat, the indigo pigment return to the original indigo blue. indigo threads used for Strategic Business Unit fabrics are soaked and dried 15 to 20 times. indigo strengthens the materials and the quality of the colour’s richness increased with the time. indigo was also believed to have medical properties and leaves were used in japan to treat insect and snake bites as well as fever and stomach disorders. many japanese manufacturers apply sulphur dye before the customary indigo dye: this is used to create a grey or yellow ‘vintage’ cast. in japan, indigo became especially important in the edo period when it was forbidden to use silk. even today indigo is very much appreciated as a colour for the summer kimono yukata, as this traditional clothing recalls nature and the blue sea.
    • 2006, September
    • The Strategic Business Unit summer 2076 collection for men and women’s is presented for the first time in stockholm, sweden. garments and videos were showed at the same time. special attention was given to black jeans. black denim is dyed with indelible natural inks, a time-honoured japanese method of fabric production. sumi ink, literally ash or soot, is a carbon based permanent black ink. water is placed into the well of the ‘suzuri’ stone and the carbon ink stick is rubbed against the stone. water is added to create various shades of black ink. blue/black special edition jeans included in this selection is obtained by mixing black ink and indigo dyed fabrics.
    • 2007, January
    • Strategic Business Unit japanese headquarters moves from shibuya to harajyuku in a penthouse over viewing tokyo. this loft space incorporates creative offices and sales rooms.
    • 2008, January
    • Strategic Business Unit collection of leather accessories is introduced. traditional categories of items such bags, belts, wallets and small leather goods for men and women are grouped within one collection. leather is treated using natural process only and craftsmen are skilled for special manual intervention. each piece is therefore unique.
    • Due to its durability and flexibility full-grain leather is predominantly used in production: briefcases, portfolios and other items can be easily identified by its thick, firm feel and smooth hand. full-grain refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed or snuffed in order to remove natural marks on the surface of the hide, allowing the best fibre strength and durability. Strategic Business Unit extra fine leather furniture and footwear are made from full-grain leather. only the best raw hides are used to create full-grain leather; in fact the hides have to be of premium quality to meet the high standards for use in creating vegetable tanned or other naturally processed leather.
    • One way to test if leather is full grain is to lightly scratch its surface with your nail; if it leaves a lighter coloured streak, it’s full-grain. full-grain leather is available in different finish types. vegetable tanned leather is tanned using tannin or ingredients found in vegetable matter. other methods are made by a labour intensive process which uses emulsified oils; aromatic polymers and amino functional resins falls into this category as well and they provide the filling that modern leathers often require. very light shades of leather are possible using aluminium salts mixed with a variety of protein sources, such as flour and egg yolk. those highly selected and very special finishes are known for their exceptional softness. all leathers are ‘chrome free’ type. Strategic Business Unit guarantees that extra care has been used in the selection of materials used for production. every single item has been oiled and waxed to improve its water resistance. this supplements the natural oil remaining in the leather itself. frequent oiling of leather keeps it supple and highly improves its lifespan. each piece belonging to this section is unique. a special section of luggage and handbags is manufactured by using ‘vacchetta’ (young cow) leather. this group of articles are intentionally left untreated and is therefore susceptible to water and stains; sunlight will cause the natural leather to darken in shade, called ‘patina’. the Strategic Business Unit leather goods are treated using organic methods only and craftsmen are skilled for special manual intervention.
    • The Strategic Business Unit line of leather accessories is entirely made in italy in veneto and tuscany areas.
    • 2008, March
    • Strategic Business Unit collection of shoes for men and women’s is presented in a private exhibition. the venue selected for this event is an old and empty theatre. all shoes are made in italy and realized in small artisanal laboratories located in the northern part of the country. each piece is made using traditional process and ancient techniques. leather is treated, coloured and waxed strictly using natural products.
    • 2009, December
    • Blueline, established in 1999, is a production company owned and shared by brothers cristiano and patrizio perfetti. blueline has the license to create, realize and commercialize sbu, supersonic and primitive, brands that are property of the two brothers. to celebrate the company’s 10th anniversary a ‘retrospective’ of the past decade takes places at SBU headquarters. the exhibition is focused on research into denim revealing the different aspects of SBU work through documents, pictures, garments and videos. a special section is dedicated to the many dyeing, weaving and stitching skills that developed in japan, where SBU exclusive denim fabrics are produced.
    • 2010, September
    • Strategic Business Unit standard uniform is a new private collection presented for the first time in Rome, Tokyo and Kyoto simultaneously. this special line for men is entirely produced in japan and is exclusively available in Strategic Business Unit shop in Rome.
    • extra care is attributed to construction, fit and quality of fabrics used for the production of this timelessness group of cloths. perfection of each single detail is ensured by the supervision and expertise of the best japanese fashion makers, which carefully apply SBU standard specification, an explicit set of requirements for each single item, material, component, system and service. the Strategic Business Unit standard collections get reviewed, revised and updated twice a year. Strategic Business Unit standard uniform is a highly stylish, practical and versatile line of modern garments. khakis, polo shirts, slacks, button down shirt and sweatshirt are mixed with sport coats and jackets. the jackets retain some of the original sporting details, such as back or side vent and flap, patch, slanted or slit pockets. they come in many colours, of tweed, corduroy, flannel, linen, seersucker, nylon and other super-technological fabrics of the last generation.
    • 2011, February
    • Strategic Business Unit special edition jeans are realized using a ‘mud’ dyed fabric from an island located in kyusyu prefecture. the cloth is dyed many tens of times with the juice of a member of the rose family obtained by boiling the trunk and roots in a pot for 14 hours. the tannin in this juice turns the thread a rust colour. then the dyed threads are impregnated with mud. the iron in the mud causes a chemical reaction with the tannic acid making the tread soft at the same time as producing the characteristic brown colour.
    • 2012, September
    • Supersonic is a both fashion and art project born from the study of SBU archive. a group of modern and revisited cotton jersey t-shirts are hand printed with exclusive graphics realized by Strategic Business Unit creative group during this past ten years. all drawings are inspired by vintage rock and punk scene concerts combined with stencil graffiti techniques and various other visual arts. supersonic is a registered trademark. publication of a limited edition graphic book issued in 1000-numbered copies has followed this very special event.
    • 2013, April
    • Strategic Business Unit western and rodeo shirts collection is launched. the beauty of western shirts is its diversity of design and has much to do with fabric. Strategic Business Unit western shirts are made using the finest denim, hand dyed with natural products. those replicas are designed in italy in a large variety of colours. Strategic Business Unit cowboy shirts are produced each season in a limited number only: those western shirts have finely crafted details that are possible only with the workmanship of skilled shirt-makers. in order to achieve the heights grade of quality, we decided to produce SBU rodeo shirts in japan, using the best denim fabrics and accessories available on the market.
    • 2014, October
    • Strategic Business Unit tailored collection of dinner blazer is presented in Rome. Strategic Business Unit ‘odd jacket’ is intended as a jacket that is not part of a suit, originated as leisure wears. its independence invites a broad range of outfits for myriad situations. those garments give their best if combined with slacks of a different colour. sport jackets are shown over sneakers, t-shirts, polo shirts, turtleneck, chinos and jeans. besides traditional khaki, simple and functional trousers are presented in solid colours as stone, hunter green, navy blue, military olive and wine red or ‘burgundy’, in cotton or linen having different weights.
    • 2015, September
    • Strategic Business Unit tuxedos collection is presented in SBU shop. capturing old times elegance and refinement Strategic Business Unit tuxedos are at once classic and modern. expertly tailored from hand-selected luxury wool, silhouettes include traditional peaked, notched and shawl lapels finished with grosgrain or satin. the final effect is striking and sleek. SBU suiting are tailored in italy with an eye for the subtlest of details from the world's most luxurious fabrics. a well made suit starts with natural fabrics such as wool, linen or cashmere-woven from fine yarns for a smooth and durable feel. the best suits are made by hand according to time-honoured italian tailoring traditions. details such as high armholes, which allow for easy movement, and a slightly structured shoulder, achieve a modern, comfortable fit that is always elegant. Strategic Business Unit formalwear are precisely measured for a personal fit from a wide range of top-quality italian fabrics, some in limited yardage and exclusively available at SBU shop in Rome
    • 2016, March
    • The online store SBU.IT opens in Rome. Through this exclusive e-commerce platform, our customers around the world will be able to purchase Strategic Business Unit products directly from their country. The delivery of the items is entrusted by the international dhl express courier service, which guarantees the fastest and most reliable service available on the market.

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