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SBU PURO INDACO E TINTURE NATURALI

L’impiego dei migliori tessuti giapponesi, prodotti in esclusiva, rende unica la collezione di capi In denim STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT.

L’arte della tessitura è una delle più antiche attività svolte dagli esseri umani. Per produrre un panno è necessario creare un filato, che dovrà essere lavorato a mano o a telaio. Nella tessitura, due serie di fili, chiamati trama e ordito, sono intrecciati tra loro creando un tessuto. Il panno è poi immerso nell’acqua, nel cosiddetto processo “umido”.

La finitura si riferisce a qualsiasi processo eseguito sul filato o sul tessuto dopo la tessitura, con il fine di migliorarne l’aspetto, le prestazioni o la ”mano”. I tessuti in denim SBU sono ottenuti mediante tecniche di tintura e di finitura utilizzate in Giappone da centinaia di anni.

La tintura è il processo con cui s’imprimono i colori a un materiale tessile, per mezzo di un pigmento. Da millenni, la natura è la principale fonte di coloranti biologici, che sono estratti da piante e da animali. I tessuti in cotone e in denim utilizzati per la produzione dei jeans SBU sono tinti con una serie di antiche tecniche che utilizzano pigmenti organici e naturali.

Il colore blu è estratto dalla pianta della specie Indigofera Tinctoria, da cui si ottiene il caratteristico indaco. Poiché il pigmento dell’indaco non è solubile in acqua, non è possibile tingere i tessuti mediante bollitura, come nelle altre tinture naturali ottenute da vegetali. Infatti, l’indaco deve essere fermentato, per diventare solubile. I filati sono impregnati in una soluzione acquosa contenente indaco, numerose volte.

Il processo di ossidazione avviene quando il tessuto è estratto dalla vasca di tintura e posto a contatto con l’aria. Il pigmento dell’indaco, che fino a prima era trasparente, si trasforma nel caratteristico colore blu, come per magia. I filati impiegati per la produzione dei tessuti denim utilizzati per la collezione di jeans SBU, sono immersi nelle vasche da quindici a venti volte. Dopo ogni immersione il colore blu aumenta di gradazione, passando lentamente dal celeste chiarissimo al blu notte profondissimo. La tintura con puro indaco naturale rafforza i materiali e la brillantezza del colore, nel tempo.

In passato, si riteneva che l’indaco avesse proprietà medicinali e le foglie della pianta Indigofera Tinctoria erano usate per curare le punture di serpenti e altri insetti velenosi, oltre che per problemi di stomaco e febbre, in Giappone. L’indaco divenne particolarmente importante durante il periodo Edo, quando fu vietato l’uso della seta.

Ancora oggi l’indaco è molto apprezzato nel paese del Sol Levante, come colore per i kimono estivi “Yukata”, poiché questi abiti tradizionali ricordano l’azzurro del cielo e del mare.

Molti produttori giapponesi applicano coloranti allo zolfo prima della tintura con indaco. Il bagno di zolfo serve a creare una patina di colore giallo o grigio sul denim.

I jeans SBU confezionati con denim nero sono tinti con inchiostri naturali indelebili, un antico metodo di tintura della tradizione Giapponese. L’inchiostro “Sumi”, letteralmente “cenere” o “fuliggine”, è un inchiostro nero permanente a base di carbonio.

L’acqua è versata in una vasca scavata nella pietra chiamata “suzuri” e la barra di carbonio viene strofinata contro la pietra, generando il pigmento necessario alla tintura. Una maggiore quantità d’acqua, diluendo il pigmento di carbonio, fa diminuire la gradazione del nero, creando incredibili sfumature che vanno dal grigio chiaro all’antracite.

Un particolare tessuto denim chiamato blue-black è ottenuto intrecciando un filato tinto con inchiostro nero, in trama, con un filato tinto con puro indaco, in ordito.

Alcuni jeans della collezione denim SBU sono realizzati con tessuti tinti con “fango”, secondo un’antichissima tradizione proveniente da un’isola Giapponese, situata nella prefettura di Kyusyu.

Il panno è immerso decine di volte con il succo estratto dalle piante della famiglia delle rose, ottenuto bollendo tronco e radici in una pentola, per quattordici ore. Il tannino contenuto in questo succo tinge il filato grezzo, che diventa di colore ruggine. In seguito, i filati ormai tinti sono impregnati con il fango. Il ferro contenuto nel fango provoca una reazione chimica con l’acido tannico, rendendo il tessuto soffice e conferendogli il caratteristico colore marrone.

I capi in “raw denim”, o “denim grezzo”, sono raggruppati in una distinta sezione all’interno della collezione di jeans STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT. I pantaloni e i giubbini confezionati in “raw denim” non sono sottoposti ad alcun processo di lavaggio, dopo essere stati prodotti, e sono immessi sul mercato allo stato “grezzo”.

Gran parte del fascino del “raw denim” e dei jeans organici risiede nel fatto che il tessuto scolorisce in modo naturale, nel tempo. L’usura dovuta all’utilizzo dell’indumento e l’inevitabile sfregamento della superficie del denim favorisce e accelera tale scoloritura.

Per questo motivo molti entusiasti reputano il “raw denim” il modo migliore per ottenere jeans invecchiati, dall’aspetto usurato e realmente “vissuto”. Alcuni puristi del denim sostengono che, per facilitare il processo di abrasione naturale nelle zone in cui il tessuto viene maggiorente piegato e sfregato (cosce e ginocchia dei jeans), gli indumenti non debbano essere lavati per lunghissimi periodi, perfino mesi. Tuttavia, non è certo se questa teoria sia effettivamente corretta, poiché non sembra necessaria ai fini della perdita di colore del tessuto.

I capi in denim della collezione SBU jeans sono prelavati dopo il confezionamento, in modo di eliminare qualsiasi successivo restringimento dell’indumento.

La collezione di jeans STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT è interamente prodotta in Italia.

SBU PURE INDIGO AND NATURAL DYES

The use of exclusive Japanese fabrics makes the STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT denim collection distinctive.

Textile manufacturing is one of the oldest human activities. In order to make textiles a fibre from which spinning can make a yarn is required. Knitting or weaving to make a cloth processes the yarn. The machine used for weaving is the loom. Weaving is the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called the ‘warp’ and the ‘weft’, are interlaced with each other to form a fabric cloth. Cloth is ‘finished’ by what is described wet process to become fabric.

Finishing refers to any process performed on yarn or fabric after weaving to improve the look, performance, or ‘hand’ (feel) of the finished textile. SBU denim fabrics are obtained by using finishing and dyeing techniques, which have been used with hand weaving for centuries in Japan.

Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material by treatment with a dye.

For most of the thousands of years in which dyeing has been used by humans to decorate fabrics, the primary source of dye has been nature, with the dyes being extracted from plants. SBU Japanese cotton and denim is dyed with a range of ancient natural dyes.

BLUE is the colour of the INDIGOFERA TINTCTORIA a plant from which the indigo colour is obtained. Because the indigo pigment is not water soluble it cannot be dyed through boiling as other plant dyeing, in fact it has to be fermented to become soluble.

Yarns are soaked into indigo liquid then, being oxidized by oxygen in the air after picking them out from the vat, the indigo pigment return to the original indigo blue. Indigo threads used for STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT denim fabrics are soaked and dried fifteen to twenty times. Indigo strengthens the materials and the quality of the colour’s richness increased with the time.

Indigo was also believed to have medical properties and leaves were used in Japan to treat insect and snake bites as well as fever and stomach disorders. In Japan, indigo became especially important in the EDO period when it was forbidden to use silk.

Even today indigo is very much appreciated as a colour for the summer kimono YUKATA, as this traditional clothing recalls Nature and the blue sea.

Many Japanese manufacturers apply sulphur dye before the customary indigo dye: this is used to create a grey or yellow ‘vintage’ cast.

SBU black jeans are dyed with indelible natural inks, a time-honoured Japanese method of fabric production. SUMI ink, literally ash or soot, is a carbon based permanent black ink. Water is placed into the well of the ‘suzuri’ stone and the carbon ink stick is rubbed against the stone. Water is added to create various shades of black ink. BLUE / BLACK special edition jeans included in this selection is obtained by mixing black ink and indigo dyed fabrics.

SBU special edition jeans are realized using a ‘mud’ dyed fabric from an island located in Kyusyu prefecture.

The cloth is dyed many tens of times with the juice of a member of the rose family obtained by boiling the trunk and roots in a pot for 14 hours. The tannin in this juice turns the thread a rust colour. Then the dyed threads are impregnated with mud. The iron in the mud causes a chemical reaction with the tannic acid making the tread soft at the same time as producing the characteristic brown colour.

RAW denim has a distinct section in STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT jeans collection. Raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production.

Much of the appeal of raw denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a natural way. The body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of his daily life affect such fading. This is what many enthusiasts reputed to be the better and only way to obtain authentic and unique ‘distressed’ jeans. To facilitate the natural distressing process, some purist of denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for several months, though it is not strictly necessary for fading.

SBU denim garments are pre-washed after being crafted in order to eliminate any shrinkage, which could cause an item to not fit after the first wash.

STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT denim collection is entirely made in Italy.

SBU PURE INDIGO AND NATURAL DYES

The use of exclusive Japanese fabrics makes the STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT denim collection distinctive.

Textile manufacturing is one of the oldest human activities. In order to make textiles a fibre from which spinning can make a yarn is required. Knitting or weaving to make a cloth processes the yarn. The machine used for weaving is the loom. Weaving is the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called the ‘warp’ and the ‘weft’, are interlaced with each other to form a fabric cloth. Cloth is ‘finished’ by what is described wet process to become fabric.

Finishing refers to any process performed on yarn or fabric after weaving to improve the look, performance, or ‘hand’ (feel) of the finished textile. SBU denim fabrics are obtained by using finishing and dyeing techniques, which have been used with hand weaving for centuries in Japan.

Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material by treatment with a dye.

For most of the thousands of years in which dyeing has been used by humans to decorate fabrics, the primary source of dye has been nature, with the dyes being extracted from plants. SBU Japanese cotton and denim is dyed with a range of ancient natural dyes.

BLUE is the colour of the INDIGOFERA TINTCTORIA a plant from which the indigo colour is obtained. Because the indigo pigment is not water soluble it cannot be dyed through boiling as other plant dyeing, in fact it has to be fermented to become soluble.

Yarns are soaked into indigo liquid then, being oxidized by oxygen in the air after picking them out from the vat, the indigo pigment return to the original indigo blue. Indigo threads used for STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT denim fabrics are soaked and dried fifteen to twenty times. Indigo strengthens the materials and the quality of the colour’s richness increased with the time.

Indigo was also believed to have medical properties and leaves were used in Japan to treat insect and snake bites as well as fever and stomach disorders. In Japan, indigo became especially important in the EDO period when it was forbidden to use silk.

Even today indigo is very much appreciated as a colour for the summer kimono YUKATA, as this traditional clothing recalls Nature and the blue sea.

Many Japanese manufacturers apply sulphur dye before the customary indigo dye: this is used to create a grey or yellow ‘vintage’ cast.

SBU black jeans are dyed with indelible natural inks, a time-honoured Japanese method of fabric production. SUMI ink, literally ash or soot, is a carbon based permanent black ink. Water is placed into the well of the ‘suzuri’ stone and the carbon ink stick is rubbed against the stone. Water is added to create various shades of black ink. BLUE / BLACK special edition jeans included in this selection is obtained by mixing black ink and indigo dyed fabrics.

SBU special edition jeans are realized using a ‘mud’ dyed fabric from an island located in Kyusyu prefecture.

The cloth is dyed many tens of times with the juice of a member of the rose family obtained by boiling the trunk and roots in a pot for 14 hours. The tannin in this juice turns the thread a rust colour. Then the dyed threads are impregnated with mud. The iron in the mud causes a chemical reaction with the tannic acid making the tread soft at the same time as producing the characteristic brown colour.

RAW denim has a distinct section in STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT jeans collection. Raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production.

Much of the appeal of raw denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a natural way. The body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of his daily life affect such fading. This is what many enthusiasts reputed to be the better and only way to obtain authentic and unique ‘distressed’ jeans. To facilitate the natural distressing process, some purist of denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for several months, though it is not strictly necessary for fading.

SBU denim garments are pre-washed after being crafted in order to eliminate any shrinkage, which could cause an item to not fit after the first wash.

STRATEGIC BUSINESS UNIT denim collection is entirely made in Italy.

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* Spedizione gratuita per ordini di almeno € 199 * Free express delivery on orders over € 199 * €199以上のお買い上げで送料無料